Evolution of Physical Oceanography

A photograph of an ocean wave cresting.
A breaking ocean wave reveals fluid dynamics at work. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia.)


Bruce A. Warren

Prof. Carl Wunsch

    Resource Description

    Evolution of Physical Oceanography was created to mark the career of Henry M. Stommel, the leading physical oceanographer of the 20th Century and a longtime MIT faculty member. The authors of the different chapters were asked to describe the evolution of their subject over the history of physical oceanography, and to provide a survey of the state-of-the-art of their subject as of 1980. Many of the chapters in this textbook are still up-to-date descriptions of active scientific fields, and all of them are important historical records. This textbook is made available courtesy of The MIT Press.